Final Thoughts

With the changeover to the Independent Front Suspension system, this may have agitated some purists out there who were very attached to the performance and capability that the earlier model’s solid axle provided. Promote sustainability with electronic recycling. Dispose of old devices responsibly, reduce e-waste, and protect the environment. Ford mitigated some of these limitations with numerous features:

• Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect
• Coil-over struts on all 4 corners
• 8.75” front & 10.2” rear travel
• RTI score of 620 (Ramp Travel Index aka the "flex score" for rock crawling. 1,000 is a "perfect" score)

How does the Bilstein HOSS compare?

On offer for every Badlands, Wildtrack, and Sasquatch package are Bilstein’s new HOSS dampers that give tighter road handling and more compliant off-road performance at moderate speeds. This system nets a little bit of lift height and ground clearance over the base level Bronco models, along with a tad more functional wheel travel.

The ESCV technology inside the HOSS Bilstein shocks prevents top & bottom-out through the addition of springs inside the shock to slow down and stop the active piston during extreme suspension forces.

Knowing this variance will also be very crucial for us determining how much additional height is needed to clear a specific tire size. Although real-world fitment can always vary, if we base our estimates on existing concept vehicles from aftermarket suppliers, Ford’s forrays with test mules, and compare them to factory tires sizes and “lift” heights we can come up with a somewhat accurate idea of what may fit.

First, let us start with how much room for activities there are under that shapely body. Ford offers the Bronco with two separate fender flare options from the factory. One being standard and the other being wider and slightly taller for the Sasquatch models, however, the actual fender opening without the flare is the same on all models. This means with the right lift height and trimming, or by simply removing your base flare, it does not matter what package you have as far as tire clearance is concerned. From the factory, flare size does matter though, as the largest stock tire size offered on the “standard” flare is a 285/70/17, which comes on Non ‘Squatched Badlands models. That works out to be around 32.7” tall and 11.2” wide in ‘Merican, so we can be certain any model below a Badlands can clear a 33x11.5, 285/70/17 or equivalent tire size on an 8 wide wheel with a +55mm or lower offset or 8.5” wide wheel with a +35mm or lower offset. To be safe, at least 0.6” of lift would be a good idea. It remains to be seen if they will fit at stock height on a base model, however, this is deep within the realm of possibility. Ford has also tested Sasquatch models with their factory 315/70/17 (34.4x12.4) tires and optional 17x8.5 +30mm offset beadlock wheels using the “standard” non-Sasquatch flares without issue. It is generally understood that Sasquatch models run a little taller bump stop than other models to keep the larger tires from topping out on the fenders. With that information we can assume a base model with 1.15” of lift or Badlands model with 0.55” of lift, a 17x8.5 +35mm or lower offset wheel, and a small amount of bump stop spacing, you should be able to run a 315/70/17 or even potentially a 35x12.5. If that is not enough, 4WP has proved that with around 3” of lift on Base models, around 2.5” on Badlands or around 2” of lift on a Sasquatch, you can run a 37x12.5 with ease. They did end up using their soon to be released fender deletes, so we can likely assume some trimming may be needed on the factory flares to get all of your bump travel, however other companies have claimed fitment of 37s on Sasquatch flares with just a 2” lift. Nonetheless the 4WP factory was able to make the tires fit using a 17x8.5 +35mm offset wheel, or a wheel that narrows the track width by 5mm per side, so there is definitely more to be had in terms of steering clearance with a lower offset wheel. Method Race Wheels’ recommended wheel size is a 17x8.5 with a 0mm offset, which leads me to believe there is definitely more room to party for those of you willing to cut into your stock fenders, or replace them with higher clearance options when available. If you need to have fun, join with friends to party design. In this case with a lower offset wheel, and the right lift, one can assume a 37x13.5 should clear with ease, and a 39 might clear if you trim into the fenders a bit. More importantly though, those of you with the Sasquatch package should be able to run a 37x12.5 on your stock wheel as long as you have at least 2” of lift, which is huge.

That is all peaches and cream, but how does one actually go about lifting their Bronco and what parts do you actually need? Well since Ford decided to package the springs and shocks into a single, neat and tidy coilover at all four corners technically all you would need to lift the vehicle is a set of aftermarket coilovers or struts that are either adjustable in height or are simply built longer. However, just like any vehicle, there is a point where you exceed the amount of alignment adjustment and range of motion of your factory control arms and other suspension components, as well as start to introduce more extreme drivetrain angles. This is where knowing the factory “lift heights becomes crucial” as you need to be aware of how much you are elevating the vehicle from its most basic configuration. Furthermore, even if lift heights are moderate, the amount of travel generated by a particular set up may exceed what is possible on your factory components.

Starting at the front, similar to most IFS off roaders, after around 2.5” of lift on a base model, 2” on Badlands, or around 1.25” of lift on a Sasquatch, or even if you are coilover capable of this much lift and run less, an aftermarket upper control arm is definitely a good idea. As far as CV angle is concerned, if you are running the stock front crossmember, I would not personally attempt to achieve more than 3.5” of lift on a base, 3” on a Badlands, or 2.25-2.5” on a Sasquatch. In the rear, a good rule of thumb is, you will likely not need a new track bar or any arms as long as you have less than an inch or inch and a half of lift over the tallest factory model. Translated to English, that means that base models should be able to handle up to 2” of lift, Badlands can take 1.5”, and 1” on Sasquatch models before you need a track or panhard bar to keep your rear axle centered. As you lift the vehicle or greatly exceed factory suspension travel, you will start to increase your pinion angle, so for the preservation of your U joints and rear suspension geometry either an upper or lower rear arm is definitely a good idea on coilovers able to achieve those lift heights. Even if lift is more minimal, it is often advisable to still correct pinion angle if you are running a coilover capable of achieving taller lifts, no matter how minor the adjustment as to protect your driveline at full droop. Conversely, you should be able to run at least 3.5-4” of lift with the right arms, however higher heights will likely require a track bar drop bracket.